Sightseeing by Bicycle in the Sintra Hills, Portugal

 Although there is little respect from motorists, cycling is a popular and ever growing sport in Portugal. The excellent climate particularly in the Spring and Autumn, when the weather is a little cooler, sees the roads around Cascais and the Sintra hills regularly dotted with lycra clad cyclists especially at weekends.

However, to enjoy the area you don’t need to wear lycra or invest several hundred Euros in a racing bike. The ride I am going to describe to you is a particular favourite of mine leaving Cascais Marina climbing up to Malveira Da Serra, up again to the picnic area in the Sintra Hills and back via Cabo Da Roca. The route is on good metalled roads, is suitable for both mountain and road bikes and, although there are a couple of long climbs they are more than rewarded with breathtaking views and equally long downhills.

 

Sintra National Park is a 14,583 hectare mountainous forested area of natural beauty, which was protected by the law in 1981 and became a national park in 1994. The area is particularly important because of its geomorphology, flora and landscape and includes the Sintra Hills, the coast between Cascais and the mouth of the River Falcão, the highlands around São João das Lampas, Cabo Raso, Cabo da Rocha, Pena, Moorish Castle, Sintra Town, Váreza and Colares.
Our ride starts from the marina in the historic port town of Cascais. Cascais has been a popular fishing port throughout history as it lies protected from nature’s elements at the mouth of the Rio Tejo. The marina like the town is very clean and modern and is becoming increasingly known for staging major international sailing events including recently the ISAF Sailing World Championship. There is ample parking in the marina and it is from here we commence our ride.

We leave the marina turning left out of the entrance and on to the distinctive red path heading up past the restaurant and market stalls at the entrance to Boca Da Inferno. Although we have only travelled a little over one Km if time is not pressing it is worth a quick look at Boca Da Inferno, especially if there is a sizeable sea swell.
We continue along the red path past Telepizza and out towards the Gunicho. The cycling along the red path is easy and we soon reach the end of the path at Praia Do Guicnho. Here we continue ahead on the road and start a steady climb towards Malveira Da Serra.

Malveira Da Serra is a small, picturesque village situated in the foothills of Sintra and enjoys some excellent views over Cascais and the Atlantic Ocean. The centre of the village sports a series of shops including butcher, baker, newsagent, supermarket, chemist, hairdresser, laundry, cafés and restaurants, among others. As we enter the village the main road veers around to the left but we turn to the right and then take the first turning left on a bend after only a few metres. Very soon the tarmac gives way to cobbles and we turn left again heading steeply uphill. Care will be required over the cobbles if it is wet but fortunately after less than a kilometre they give way to tarmac again.

Continuing uphill, but less steeply now, along the main road we take the first left following the brown tourist signs up in to the treeline. By this stage there is a distinct possibility that the thighs will be starting to hurt a little and the shade of the trees will be a welcome relief.
 
We continue to climb gradually through a mixture of deciduous and pine trees for some 3 or 4 Kms before reaching the highest point of the ride at a picnic site. A well earned rest is the order of the day in the safe knowledge that the route is almost exclusively downhill or on the flat from hereonin. For those who wish it is possible to make a detour from here to explore The Capuchin monastery at Convento Dos Capuchos.
 
Entry costs in 2007 were around 10 Euros for a family ticket making the site well worth a visit. This remote monastery in its woodland setting, was founded in 1560 and on entering the visitor steps into another world. Some of the tiny monks’ cells in which it was impossible to stand upright or to sleep fully stretched out are hewn out of the solid rock and were insulated against cold and damp with layers of cork. The first community was composed of eight monks, the best known of all being Frei Honório who lived until close to 100 years old despite having spent the last three decades of his life within a small cave near the convent, meeting penance.
 
From the picnic site it is only a minute or so ride to Capel Peninha. It is well worth visiting the chapel, founded by Frei Pedro da Conceição at the end of the 17th Century, if only for the stunning views of the local area and out to the ocean. It is situated at one of the most attractive points of the Serra de Sintra, by the ruins of an older one – the Chapel of São Saturnino. Unfortunately, the last two occassions I visited it was firmly closed. Open or not the views from around the perimeter are not to be missed.
Whether leaving the car park or the picnic area our route heads downhill for some 3 or 4 Kms through the trees. Care is required on some of the bends, which can be both sharp and unexpectedly wet and slippery. The final few bends before the reaching the main road being prime examples. On reaching the give way sign we turn left on the main road heading back towards the village of Malverra Da Serra. However, before we return there is another opportunity for a sightseeing diversion to Cabo Da Roca.
 
The road to Cabo Da Roca is about 2 or 3 Kms in length and mainly downhill with some excellent views along the way. Cabo Da Roca itself enjoys the privilage of being the western most point on the continent of Europe, which the poet Camões defined as “where the land ends and the sea begins”. Its geographical coordinates are: Latitude – 38′ 47′ North Longitude – 9′ 30′ West and its Altitude is 140 M above sea level. Apart from the lighthouse, there is a tourist desk, where visitors can buy an attractive certificate showing they have been there and a shop and cafe. For those who take the diversion they will need to retrace their route back up to the main road and turn right towards Malveira Da Serra. The road back to Malveira contours along the coast affording some excellent views and it has the benefit of being a gradual decline. On reaching the village of Malveira we fork sharply round to the right along the same road we climbed up from the Guincho on earlier. Our route now simply follows the main road we folowed on our way out, back to the marina at Cascais.

 On the whole this is a very pleasant ride with one long gradual climb in the middle. Its length is in the order of 45-50 Kms if you take in all the visits. It is not really suitable for young children but teenagers should have no problems. If time permits the ride and its diversions offer an afternoon of excercise, sightseeing and some stunning scenery and views. For a young family the route from the marina to Guincho along the red path returning the same way could be an enjoyable alternative.

 

 

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